Signed Christian Dior Brooch – 1964 – Henkel & Grosse | Ruby Red, Emerald & Turquoise

This magnificent vintage brooch from 1964 is a rare couture piece by Christian Dior, made by the renowned atelier Henkel & Grosse in Germany. The design perfectly reflects the luxurious, colourful style of Dior's accessories in the mid-1960s.

The brooch is built up in layers and richly set with a combination of ruby red, emerald green, olive green and turquoise glass stones in various cuts – including cabochons and navettes – set in warm gilt brass. The floral design and sparkling colours make this a real eye-catcher.

The reverse is clearly signed “Christian Dior © 1964 Germany”, tracing it to an authentic Dior couture accessory.

Brand: Christian Dior
Period / Year: 1964
Style: Playful baroque with a floral twist. This brooch is a lively example of Dior's jewellery designs of the 1960s: colourful, imaginative and generously constructed. A luxurious eye-catcher with natural influences and couture allure.
Materials: Gilt metal in an organically shaped base structure, rich in texture and detail.
Stones: A combination of polished and faceted glass stones in ruby red, emerald green, jade green marbled pattern, smoky grey and clear crystal. The marquise-shaped stones are smooth and opaque; the round and pear-shaped stones are faceted and transparent.
Design: Flower-shaped composition built up in several layers, with a central rosette of coloured glass stones. The openwork gold base has a whimsical, almost coral-like structure. The striking combination of textures, shapes and colours makes this brooch a true objet d'art.
Clasp: Classic brooch pin with safety clasp.
Dimensions: Diameter approx. 4.8 cm
Signed: Yes, marked on the reverse “Chr. Dior © 1964”

In 1964 Christian Dior was under the creative direction of Marc Bohan, whose designs breathed elegance and femininity. The Henkel & Grosse jewellery of this period served as an extension of the couture collections and was made to the highest standards of design and finish.

The colour combination in this brooch – jade green, ruby red and smoky glass – is typical of the mid-century luxury look of Dior's accessories and fits perfectly with the jewellery fashion of the time.

A rare collector's item for lovers of historic haute couture – elegant, striking and utterly Dior.

Christian Dior, the influential French couturier, understood that accessories are indispensable to a complete look. Jewellery – or bijoux – therefore held an important place within his fashion house.

Dior's jewellery was sumptuous and refined, often made of gilt metal, crystal and imitation pearls. Nature motifs, such as flowers and organic forms, were a recurring theme.

Thanks to advanced techniques such as gilding, enamelling and crystal setting, the pieces acquired a distinctly luxurious look.

Collaborations with top designers such as Mitchel Maer and Robert Goossens led to iconic, timeless creations that fitted Dior's couture vision perfectly.